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berlingo did not start
2001 xreg berlingo multispace forte 1.8l petrol 131000
When leaving supermarket car park yesterday my berlingo would not start it was turning over but would not fire up, phoned my mate who came with some jump leads just in case.
Connected the leads tried it a couple more times and just the same left it a few minutes and tried again and it started.
Got the car home parked up and as it was raining decided to have a look at it today. Went out to the car today and it started first time checked battery with tester and its reading ok (cheap tester from aldi).
Ive only had the car a few weeks so have not changed the service items yet.
Would a clogged up fuel filter cause this? ive not changed one before is it just a case of releasing the pipe off the filter and pushing them onto the new filter or will the fuel just come out of the pipe ends.
Any help would be much appreciated.
It's unlikely to be the filter.

A 1.8 may have an ignition amplifier module; these can die of old age and lack of silicone grease underneath. Otherwise it might just have worn out plugs.

There is some possibility the engine is mistimed, if the timing belt was last changed without using a new crank pulley for reference; this would result in hard starting and laggardly performance.
Replacing the fuel filter is a messy operation, so don't try that unless you're absolutely certain that the filter is the cause. (It's as Ado say, very unlikely)
The filter is located underneath the car, just in front of the tank, and has the same connectors as is used to connect the fuel pipes to the high-pressure reservoir. The best way to disconnect the filter is to use a special tool to open clamp open the lock of those connectors. (doing it by hand is an agony. The tool is available in many stores, though)
Both the fuel lines and the filter will contain gasoline, so there WILL be spillage.
A lot of spillage, in fact... (Assume that the filter is full... )

The Haynes book mentions a couple of possible reasons for difficulty in starting when hot.
ECU problems (and sensors) is one.
Low compression is another one.
Thanks for the ideas so far not sure when the timing belt got changed so have that on my to do list the car started first time before this and starts first time now so not quite sure why it did not start before. Hate sundays motor factors shut and only halfords open hopefully euro parts open on Monday and no rain I will change the service items.
If it has an ignition module, I strongly recommend you carry a spare and silicone grease for it. The only two times I've had a car completely fail to proceed have been module failure and a worn out alternator.
Might have solved the problem get in the car to go home from work and the car would not start at all would not even turn over. I was just looking for a branch to do a basil fawlty on it when I decided to look at the battery.
The negative lead had popped off the battery pushed it back on and tried to tighten it but it is as tight as it can go the lead wobbles a bit.
A bit of copper cable later and its now tight.
Would a loose cable cause it to turn over but not start?
its died again got in the car Friday morning and just the same turns over but does not start checked battery lead and all are tight squirted a bit of easy start in air intake starts but then dies straight away any ideas?
So it runs until the ether spray is used up? Then you have a fuel delivery issue. Check power is going to the fuel pump, or splice a pressure gauge into the fuel infeed line.
There may be a shrader valve(same type valve as used on tires) on the High Pressure reservoir. (The plastic tube mounted over the fuel injectors)
It's easier to connect a pressure gauge to that than to mess about with the infeed line.

Note; there's basically two different fuel-delivery systems and 3 reservoir types:
(That I have observed)
Both Infeed and Return line.On these there's a metal lump at the end of the reservoir. This is the pressure regulator. I haven't seen any reservoirs for this setup that has a Shrader valve.

Only one fuel line:
Pressure regulator is in the pump itself.
Reservoir may or may not have a Shrader valve for ease of testing.

I believe the pressure should be about 4Bar(Not a clue how many PSI that is)

Note that you can hear the pump running if you switch on the ignition while keeping the gas pedal depressed fully. (It'll make a bit of a whine as it prims the system) No need to attempt to start the engine for this test.
Have checked fuses all seem OK some I could check on the fuse box some I had to pull out and test on the metal ends did not check the ones in the engine bay running down the centre of the fuse box these were 40a and 30a did not want to pull these out as not sure what they power.
The wires on these seem OK the 40a has a slight bend to it.
When turning the key you can hear a noise which must be the fuel pump starting.
The fuel rail has a fuel pipe going into each end of it no Schrader valve but what I think is the fuel regulator (looks like a silver top hat with a metal tube on the side of it with a hose attached.)
Have also disconnected the battery left it and reattched it just in case anything was stored in the ECU.
Changed fuel filter disconnected tank end first fuel dribbled out then engine side fuel squirted out under pressure.

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