Brake Shoes

[Berlinguist]

Is there an adjuster accessed from behind the back plate to loosen off before removal (and then adjust up after refitting ?

No. I think you'll find that you need to position one of the bolt holes to the rear of the 6 o'clock position. Find the handbrake ops lever and move it towards the rear of vehicle. That should allow the drum to slip over the shoes. (Take a look at the post's earlier pic for guidance)

"handbrake ops lever" not sure what you mean by this ? do you mean that the handbrake should be disengaged as far as poss

The handbrake is cable operated and activates a 'handbrake operating lever' in the drum. It needs to be moved to the 'fully off' position. The handbrake, of course, should be off before starting.

[Noel Brig]

The handbrake is cable operated and activates a 'handbrake operating lever' in the drum. It needs to be moved to the 'fully off' position. The handbrake, of course, should be off before starting.

If the 'ops' lever is inside the drum, how do you turn it to the 'off' position before you remove the drum?

There seems to be a hard plastic blue coloured plug in the back plate, do I remove that to get access to the ops lever? Is it like a little cogged wheel that can be toggled with a screwdriver?

[Berlinguist]

The handbrake is cable operated and activates a 'handbrake operating lever' in the drum. It needs to be moved to the 'fully off' position. The handbrake, of course, should be off before starting.

If the 'ops' lever is inside the drum, how do you turn it to the 'off' position before you remove the drum?

There seems to be a hard plastic blue coloured plug in the back plate, do I remove that to get access to the ops lever? Is it like a little cogged wheel that can be toggled with a screwdriver?

Hi, Look at the pic earlier in the thread. The lever is the silver bit attached to the trailing shoe, if the drum is turned to allow sight of the edge of that through a bolt hole then you will be able to get a screwdriver to it. Push it back to slacken off, you may have to lift it a little with the blade of the 'driver.

[Noel Brig]

Hi, Look at the pic earlier in the thread. The lever is the silver bit attached to the trailing shoe, if the drum is turned to allow sight of the edge of that through a bolt hole then you will be able to get a screwdriver to it. Push it back to slacken off, you may have to lift it a little with the blade of the 'driver.

Yes it all makes sense now, was just being a bit thick - I now even understand why you are telling me to turn the hub to just after 6 o'clock ! The last van I owned had a little plug in the back plate that gave access to the shoes, i was obsessing.

Anyway - many thanks again, should get round to getting the job done next week - just need to get the garage tidied out first.

[Russell]

Is there an adjuster accessed from behind the back plate to loosen off before removal (and then adjust up after refitting ?

No. I think you'll find that you need to position one of the bolt holes to the rear of the 6 o'clock position. Find the handbrake ops lever and move it towards the rear of vehicle. That should allow the drum to slip over the shoes. (Take a look at the post's earlier pic for guidance)

"handbrake ops lever" not sure what you mean by this ? do you mean that the handbrake should be disengaged as far as poss

Sorry if i am in the wrong place for this but you can see i am new to the forum. I am in the middle of replacing the rear shoes on a 51 plate and i am stuck,lost whatever.cant seem to get the shoes back on.anyone got a diagram of what goes where and tips how to do this as easily as poss? Cheers,and sorry if in the wrong place to post this.

[brodfather11]

Do one side at a time , ( or is it too late ?) that way if you get lost look at the undone side to see where the springs etc, goes.

They can be very fiddly and akward. ! . You need about 6 thin fingers approx 8mm and made of steel and thats just one hand,

The way I do them is to partially rebuild the assy. before trying to fit. Put some copperslip between h/brake lever pivot and the shoe. Put the adjuster mechanism together after unscrewing off, and the top springs on, then lever it into position. You should have the shoes ready to fit to the back plate. Offer the assy to the b/plate and with a screwdriver lever gently onto the w/cylinder(tricky bit) This stage you should have the top of the shoes resting on the w/cylinder or behind the dust covers. Then fit the bottom spring on one side and connect to the other and then lever the shoes on one side at atime, bottom first and then the top carefully to avoid damage to the w/cylinder dust covers.With a screwdriver lever the hand brake lever forward and slip the cable into its position. Fit the small spring and adjuster lever and then the retaining springs and caps. Sounds easy but its easier said than done

Sorry I do not have a diagram regarding springs but there are four springs , the weakest goes to the adjusting lever , the stronger but next larger goes on the botton the largest goes at the top and the one between with a long tail goes on the adjuster
(I'm trying to do this from memory so I could be wrong)

Hopes it helps alut:

[bigal]

hi as you are on about brakes.I would keep away from cheep brake pads and shoes it will coat you more monye in the long run. from brake damage.