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Cooling Fan Fault - Identify Part - Printable Version

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Cooling Fan Fault - Identify Part - jharrawa - 24-06-2015

 After getting stuck in a traffic jam one to many times with the heater on full because the cooling fan won't cut in, I thought it was time to finally get it sorted.  At the time of writing this is the last known fault!




 I've had a poke around and found this corroded and loose wire, which disappears into a housing on the front of the radiator panel (Pic 1)



 Pic 2 shows the inside of that housing - I'm assuming it's some kind of relay housing.



 I'd be grateful if someone could point me in the direction of;



a) How this connector comes out, and am I going to loose a load of coolant?

b) Where I can get a new one.  It attaches to a connector by the wing, do I just need a bit of loom?



 Thanks,  Jon.
 2004 1.4 Petrol







[Image: 15h0bw9.jpg]

[Image: 11hqb9z.jpg]


RE: Cooling Fan Fault - Identify Part - Tomcat3 - 24-06-2015

Its a bit hard to make out in the picture but depending whether you have air con or not, it could be either the cooling fan switch or temperature sensor. It looks from the lower picture you squeeze the lugs together which are at 5 and 11 o`clock and the connector comes of the switch/sensor but don't force it. Has the wire broken off what looks like the end of a spade connector at the 3 0`clock position. If it has you should be able to make good with a new female spade in the socket.


RE: Cooling Fan Fault - Identify Part - jharrawa - 25-06-2015

Thanks Tom,

It's a non-air con van. I'll have a fiddle with it later. Hopefully I can get hold of a new spade that will fit in the existing connector.

Jon


RE: Cooling Fan Fault - Identify Part - jharrawa - 25-06-2015

Well I've had a play today.

The green connector is a standard relay base that had seen better days. I've cut the wires off, and treated myself to some new spade connectors, and am pleased to say that the fan works.

Unfortunately I know the fan works as the van thinks that it is overheating constantly - the needle is fully in the red even when the van has been sitting for a few hours. Additionally, on start up it won't rev, before then settling on a 3.5k rpm idle for 2 minutes - after that the idle is normal, although the fan stays on.

To say that I'm gutted to have fixed one fault and caused another is an understatement - does anyone have any ideas?


RE: Cooling Fan Fault - Identify Part - el_es - 27-06-2015

(25-06-2015, 05:30 PM)jharrawa Wrote:  Well I've had a play today.

The green connector is a standard relay base that had seen better days.  I've cut the wires off, and treated myself to some new spade connectors, and am pleased to say that the fan works.

Unfortunately I know the fan works as the van thinks that it is overheating constantly - the needle is fully in the red even when the van has been sitting for a few hours.  Additionally, on start up it won't rev, before then settling on a 3.5k rpm idle for 2 minutes - after that the idle is normal, although the fan stays on.

To say that I'm gutted to have fixed one fault and caused another is an understatement - does anyone have any ideas?

Hi,
I have same year and same radiator/fan (in 2006 MS-F passenger van) - just changed a relay today ... (still not working)
the temperature is measured by a green sensor sitting in the thermostat housing (in between the head block and the air filter, see image ). If you disconnect it, the needle goes right up to red. But (not being a specialist though) the thing with 3.5k RPMs smells to me like ECU fault ?
[attachment=2360]


RE: Cooling Fan Fault - Identify Part - jharrawa - 27-06-2015

All sorted so a quick update in case anyone else comes across this thread in the future.

I used this Youtube video to help test the green sensor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPAIFL8VH9w. Had 5volts at the connector, and the resistance reduced as it heated up, so all seemed OK.
I took out the blue sensor, confirmed that it had 5 volts at the connector, and then heated it up to make it switch. Again all OK.

When I re-fitted the sensors and connectors I, slightly bent the pins to ensure that they'd make contact when re-connected.

Lo and behold everything is OK. Either a dodgy connection, or a grumpy ECU which needed a certain number of starts to clear itself of a phantom code (which has happened before)