Just bought a 2004 Multispace 2.0 HDi and have a few issues:
- When starting/turning off the engine there is some knocking. With the bonnet open it looks like the engine has a bit of excessive movement in it, perhaps there are some worn bushes. Can you recommend which ones to check or what else it could be please?
- One the sliding doors won't open, is this an easy fix? It opened and closed fine when I view the vehicles and by the time I got home it wouldn't open (from inside or outside).
- There's a slight oil leak on the O/S of the engine, either coming from the timing belt casing area or the sump, hard to say. Any ideas?
Apart from the above, I've very happy with it. A bit disappointed as I wanted to have a crack at fitting cruise control but I don't think this model has ABS and seems to have a throttle cable, so I'm guessing it's not possible?
Thanks for any advice given.
Cruise control should be possible, matter of fitting the stalk then activating it in the bsi/ecu, not an expert on cruise control however so hopefully someone will confirm.
Its your engine mounts that are the issue with the engine movement, there is three , top left, top right (normally under the battery ) and at the bottom in the middle at the back. Relatively inexpensive to replace and straight forward. Just need to find out which one(s) are the issue.
Door could be a number of things central locking not disengaging, child safety lock activated on the inside and the out side handle not playing, if its the door at the side of the fuel fill up it could be that the door is not unlocking when the fuel cap is replaced.
Slight leak could be a seal , all you can do is throughly clean the area and see where it returns from, then take a pic so peeps can let you know
Thank you for your reply.
I'll have a look around at the engine mounts to see if they look worn. Perhaps I'll post some photos of the visible ones on here to get some opinions.
I think it's the door on the other side to fuel cap, I can definitely hear the central locking doing something on the door. Where are the child lock controls located?
I'll have a good look at everything to try and discover the oil leak location. I might replace the timing belt and water pump. The service book has a tick to say the timing belt was replaced but it's not a main dealer stamp and there are no invoices to say it's been done. For the sake of £60 for a kit it's probably worth replacing it all and I can have a look at the pulleys/tensioners to see if anything is leaking then.
Great news on the cruise control part. On further inspection the throttle cable is just connected to a sensor in the engine bay as opposed to any sort of manifold. I checked and the clutch switch only had two wires and I think it needs 4 for cruise control. Couldn't see anything on the brake pedal but I assume it will have something even if it hasn't got ABS to turn the brake lights on!
25-06-2014, 11:25 AM
(This post was last modified: 25-06-2014, 11:37 AM by homeruk.)
The best way to check the engine mount is to give the engine a good rocking, engine will move a little naturally but any excess movement will be obvious.
Whilst your in the engine bay check your injectors for leaks.
Do you have a floppy handle on the outside ? One thing you could do is gain access to the rear door mechanisms and compare the two to see what's amiss on the broken door that's usually the quickest way.
OK, I used the citroen website to double check the specs. It definitely doesn't have ABS and the engine type is TURBO DIESEL DW10TD.
How do you check the injectors for leaks? There was a pool of fluid near to one of the injectors, I couldn't get my hand down to it but I used a stick to dip into the fluid and it didn't have a smell so I assume it was water. The engine cover is missing so I guess water is getting to the top of the engine. Is it worth replacing the engine cover?
Its not easy for water to get on top of the engine especially as it will evaporate off with the heat of the engine.
Chances are you have a puffing injector or two , normally you can hear it as exhaust noise from the injector, if its been leaking a while you should see fumes leaking and if you put your hand over it you should feel it.
Quite common especially with loose engine mounts, they are known for vibrating nuts loose.
This is a link to another thread with a pic of the inside of your rear doors
25-06-2014, 12:25 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-06-2014, 12:38 PM by cha1n.)
Oh dear, well it certainly didn't smell like diesel.
What's the damage cost wise if an injector needs replacing? Big money I guess? *gulps*
I just double checked and the fluid that was there has now gone. I'm not saying there isn't any leaking injectors but whatever was there has evaporate off and as I said, it didn't smell of fuel or oil.
Have a look into my ghetto topic if you get stuck with the door. There is some photos of the locking mechanism if I'm not mistaken. You can see how I fixed mine
You might be lucky with the injectors then!
Just keep an eye on it always best to fix a leaking injector sooner than later.
If an injector is leaking its the seals that have gone not theinjector if you fix it yourself it will only cost you around 13.50 for the seals per injector
Didn't have a chance to look at the door today but had a good look to try and identify where the oil was coming from. It looks like it's either coming from the top of the timing belt housing (mostly likely the crank pulley?) or there is a exhaust looking component on the drivers side at the back of the engine which looks like it could be leaking.
I had a good go at rocking the engine and got someone to turn it on and off to see where the knocking is coming from and i seems like it's the mount on the gearbox side that's causing a metal knocking sound, followed by a few thuds from the mount near the top of the timing belt housing. Perhaps the gearbox side mount being gone had caused the other one to wear as well. How snug should the one on the O/S be? I'd say there's 5-7.5mm gap when one of rubbers is against the metal bracket.