Thanks for the link Andre. To be honest I spent a few days exploring the internet for definitive answers, but found none. I didn't use the adapters, merely chopped the old connector off and used my own 3amp connector blocks for the two cables, the same in the doors. I used white as positive and peach as negative ( I think ). They're not out of phase, merely getting too much power. I need to somehow distinguish, re-wire, the tweeters so the stereo can send the correct frequency and power to the tweets and door speakers seperately. As it stands the " front " setting on my stereo controls both the tweeters and the door speakers. As soon as I put any hint of volume on the tweets start crackling.
Right I went into a Car Audio shop today and got the answers. So if anyone is reading, or has the same problem, it is this ; I didn't use the crossover supplied to wire the tweeter, merely used the originals. I have to re route a cable back through the door from the crossover unit, or take the crossover unit straight from the head unit, take the woofer from the crossover to the door speaker, then route the tweeter cable from the crossover to the tweeter. I shall now investigate how to get a cable from the door through the connectiony thingy on the door, to the tweeter.
22-07-2015, 03:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 22-07-2015, 03:32 PM by Mikey Hedison.)
Right, I cannot get a cable through the door connector ( Molex ), not happening. So, therefore I now have to wire the original cables to the new speakers in the door. Put the crossover unit behind the head unit and splice onto the cable going to the doors, then re route a new tweeter cable from the cross over to the tweets. Seems easy enough, it's just now I have to match up the cables at the ISO to the door speakers, which are different colours.
I did manage to get the door panel off, which is something new I've learnt.