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Different van after cam belt change
Hello All.....
  I changed the cam belt and water pump 1K miles ago and this it what I have found....

  The old belt covered 62K miles and was shot, lucky it hadn't snapped...
The belt run from the Fuel pump down to the Crank was sloppy. I noticed the crank pulley has a slot cut in it to allow a small amount of rotation ? Anyway it seems as if approx half a tooth is the movement on the pulley. I fitted the new belt so it is tight between fuel pump and crank, I hope this is correct..
The fuel economy has taken a dive, 250+ miles per half a tank was easily achieved but that has reduced to 210 if driven carefully... What do you think I can do to get the fuel economy back ? The pump and cam sprockets are locked so they can't be adjusted or fitted incorrectly..

Also the rear doors will now lock even if the doors are open, which I don't like. I want them back as they were which was to fail to lock unless the doors are closed fully. Does this sound like something that can be changed or is there a fault with the door lock ? The battery was disconnected for 2 days, due to Weather I couldn't complete the job in one day.

 The water pump I took out had plastic fins and the seals had gone causing a coolant leak. The pump I fitted from Citroen has metal fins, the difference is that before the running temperature was between 80 - 90 on the temp gauge and when in traffic I had to have the heater on to help control the temperature as the needle would climb up the gauge, although the coolant never boiled up, I was worried it would.. The metal fin pump runs 70-80 deg and the needle hardly moves in traffic, I am a bit worried about Winter time as the engine runs cooler now, is the choke going to stay on longer or even come on and off ??

  Any comments welcome
2.0hdi engine by any chance?
Sorry, I'm being a plum...

 A standard 1.9D DW8..
Diesels don't have chokes.
Belt shouldn't be really tight. As a rule of thumb, you should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees on longest run.
Could you have moved the pump timing when you fitted belt?
[+] 1 user says Thank You to Col for this post
Did you use Haynes manual ?? Sounds like you done it wrong to me.
Col.. I know diesels don't have a choke but the manual dose say the glow plugs will come on at low temperature so there is a 'cold running' system of sorts, the point I was making is that the engine might run too cold during the cold Weather..

  Geoff, Why does it sound like I have done it wrong ?? Haynes manual is vague.. What do you think I have done wrong ?

 Pump timing can't be moved, as I say, the pump is locked in position with a pin..

 When you changed the cam belt, did you notice the amount of movement in the crank gear ? should this be freeplay ?
The pulleys on the fuel pump and camshaft are moveable, they should have slots in the bolt holes to enable precise timing. When the pins are in place it is to lock the shafts in  position , the pulleys are moveable by slackening the three bolts to enable the belt to find its own position when the belt adjuster is adjusted.  Once the belt is adjusted then tighten up the three bolts again.

Haynes has diagrams on page 2D*10 and 11

As Col says they don't have chokes. the cold start system you refer to is the glow plugs that come on when its cold to enable
easier starting., they go off after tweny secs or so,  and don't come on when the engine is running.

There shouldn't be movement in the crank gear , if you mean the toothed drive on the crankshaft behind the pulley.

I would check the belt timing again as it seems to be out ,though that would have nothing to do with your rear doors.
[+] 1 user says Thank You to brodfather11 for this post
I know you have done it wrong as you didn't realise that the crank pulley is meant to have a certain diameter pin inserted in the slot during assembly,the way you described the fitting of the belt tight between the pump and crank and also the bit about the cam and pump pulleys being solid. Not forgetting the increase in fuel consumption of course as this will normally improve together with performance.

As said above the cam / pump pulleys will have adjustment by slackening off bolts during assembly - the specifics of this depends on age of engine, my engine for example has slotted crank pulley fixed cam and slotted pump pulley. The variation will mean you need to read carefully the manual and extract some of the data from the 2.0 engine as it applies to your engine. If you have a slotted crank pulley then one of the other pulleys HAS TO BE SlOTTED to allow correct belt tensioning and note that the advised position for that pulley at beginning of assembly is important as it allows the pulley itself but not the shaft to move during tensioning.

Personally I'd look to doing this job again - not from just listening to me a stranger but purely from the point of view that the fuel consumption has taken a hit. Give the manual another read.

Edit : Just re read this and in case in sounded hard I was actually trying to be helpful.
[+] 1 user says Thank You to geoff for this post
OK, thanks, when I get the time I will check the timing..

  What will affect fuel economy ? Advanced or retarded ?

 I didn't need to move the cam or fuel pump gears to get the belt on and they were both locked in position and the belt went on, should I go back and lock the cam and fuel pump then re-tension the belt as per Haynes ? I don't suppose it will do any harm if I did eh ?

  Yes the toothed gear behind the drive belt pulley.. Haynes say it is 'floating' but doesn't mention anything about wear...

 Perhaps the rear doors are in need of another BSI reset ?
Advanced and retarded will affect the economy.

You need to slacken the pulleys even if the belt will go on.

Yes re do it according to Haynes and don't short cut the proceedures.

The very act of tensioning the belt will affec / alter the timing !

It floats and is meant to there isn't wear because it floats.
[+] 1 user says Thank You to geoff for this post

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