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Spare wheel theft prevention
#1
Hello, any suggestions out there for securing the spare wheel against theft?  I suppose any determined thief would overcome most locking methods but any is better than none. 
Thanks
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#2
Hi, I found the best way was to drill a hole above the u bracket that hooks under the cage and put a padlock through it.
Just make sure it's well greased as the salt and rainwater will corrode it otherwise

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
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#3
I've read on other forums of people using padlocks and bike locks finding that it's completely corroded and stuck when you need to use the spare, even if it was greased.

There's a Citroen part no CIT9211 that's a locking kit that's readily available. I'm not certain that this fits a Berlingo, but it probably will. I've no idea how a plastic nut and bolt is supposed to stop a thief, but at least it won't rust. You do need to drill a hole in the boot floor, and you will end up with a protruding bolt head sticking up from the boot floor.

I understand that the spare wheel thefts were mostly when they included an alloy spare, so any scumbag just needed to nick four spares to make a new set of alloys. This is no longer the case - they'd just get a worthless steel wheel and a used tyre worth perhaps £20, so I think there's less risk than there once was.
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#4
Years ago a friend of mine got a Berlingo as a mobility car option, he has a leg off and his wife drives. They parked the car and went shopping and when they set off there was a scraping and the wheel had been stolen with the carriage left down. It looked like all the thieves had done was force the hook so the carriage dropped. Get some big tie wraps and fasten the wheel in the carriage but remember to carry some side cutters in your tool kit to release it.
So where does this bit go then ?
[+] 1 user says Thank You to ffrenchie for this post
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#5
Anyone could cut cable ties in a second - just putting a screwdriver under and twisting would snap the thickest ones.

I don't think it's a hot underworld secret I'm letting out here, but I did read that the most popular method is to let the tyre down so that the cradle goes slack. Then you can easily unhook it with your hands - no tools required.

So a good option would be to put it in valve-upwards, but I don't know whether this is possible. I have my wheel inside a waterproof fabric bag (just a £5 cheap thing), with the opening squeezed against the underside of the floor, so you'd need to knife the bag in lots of places to find the valve before you could let it down.

It should also keep the wheel clean and dry too - mine was beginning to rust on my 18-month old that I've had from new before I fitted this bag.
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#6
I don't know about earlier versions but my MkIII '08 the hook is closed off by the threaded rod when in place. It would take a lot of effort to remove the wheel even with a flat tyre.

If they really want it badly enough they would have to come equiped with tools.
MkIII VTR 1.6hdi Modutop, Climate Pack, 16" Alloys
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#7
I took mine off for the first time recently (64-reg B9) - after it had been undisturbed since new 18 months before, and with no grease having ever been put on it. I put the wheel brace on the bolt and merrily turned. But the bolt had (already) corroded, to the extent that it wouldn't go beyond a few turns - but I didn't know this at the time.

The effect of the bolt not being able to unscrew through the hook was that, after it had slackened just a few turns, the hook span round a bit, and the cradle and wheel fell to the floor with a crash. I think the cradle edge fits between the hook and the protruding bolt no problem.

Obviously I've put some grease all over the bolt now, but my point is that by slackening it slightly you can rotate it and the thing just falls off, with the bolt still well threaded through the hook. You just need enough slackening so that the cradle can raise about 5mm to get it out of the hooked part. I've read elsewhere that letting the tyre down does give plenty space for this to happen. The procedure is...
  • Let tyre down
  • Lift cradle and spare wheel just a few mm
  • Unhook the hook
  • Lower the cradle, take the wheel

I'm a bit wary of giving theft advice, but this is common knowledge among the scumbags. My point though is that if they can't access the valve then this can't be done. But that's not much of a victory, because you then just need to clamp mole grips on the end of the bolt and turn it a few turns. But at least you need to come prepared for that, and they might prefer to take one where they can access the valve easily instead.

I don't think anyone's actually that bothered about taking steel wheels anyway, but I could be wrong.

I don't know how the official lock kit works in detail, but it looks pretty flimsy and I'm not keen on either drilling a hole through the floor or having a lump under the carpet. I often carry flat boxes, so a lump would be a big annoyance.
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#8
(02-08-2016, 06:22 PM)doofer Wrote:  I took mine off for the first time recently (64-reg B9) - after it had been undisturbed since new 18 months before, and with no grease having ever been put on it.  I put the wheel brace on the bolt and merrily turned.  But the bolt had (already) corroded, to the extent that it wouldn't go beyond a few turns - but I didn't know this at the time.

The effect of the bolt not being able to unscrew through the hook was that, after it had slackened just a few turns, the hook span round a bit, and the cradle and wheel fell to the floor with a crash.  I think the cradle edge fits between the hook and the protruding bolt no problem.

Obviously I've put some grease all over the bolt now, but my point is that by slackening it slightly you can rotate it and the thing just falls off, with the bolt still well threaded through the hook.  You just need enough slackening so that the cradle can raise about 5mm to get it out of the hooked part.  I've read elsewhere that letting the tyre down does give plenty space for this to happen.  The procedure is...
  • Let tyre down
  • Lift cradle and spare wheel just a few mm
  • Unhook the hook
  • Lower the cradle, take the wheel

I'm a bit wary of giving theft advice, but this is common knowledge among the scumbags.  My point though is that if they can't access the valve then this can't be done.  But that's not much of a victory, because you then just need to clamp mole grips on the end of the bolt and turn it a few turns.  But at least you need to come prepared for that, and they might prefer to take one where they can access the valve easily instead.

I don't think anyone's actually that bothered about taking steel wheels anyway, but I could be wrong.

I don't know how the official lock kit works in detail, but it looks pretty flimsy and I'm not keen on either drilling a hole through the floor or having a lump under the carpet.  I often carry flat boxes, so a lump would be a big annoyance.

Believe me they are bothered about steel wheels, my mates transit got done few months back. Turned out 15 had been done that night in the wider area..
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#9
Mike's now in a waterproof bag, valve upwards. Hopefully someone doing the rounds would see that it looks more complicated to swipe and go onto the next.

If there was a way of locking it without a big downside I'd fit it, but I haven't seen anything. The official kit is probably the best bet if you're happy to drill a hole and it actually works.

What's really needed is a complete replacement of the cage with a solid clamshell box, with some kind of internal catch. Perhaps one for the 2018 version wish list, in case anyone from Citroen is reading.

It couldn't be internal under the floor, as potentially you could get a flat while there's a 400kg pallet on top of it, so you'd then need a forklift to move the pallet to access the wheel. So having it external is sensible, but weather and theft proofing is woefully lacking.
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