Replacing Ignition switch / barrel

[Dave]

Hi All

I am trying to replace the ignition barrel on my van (key no longer turns) by following the instructions in a Haynes manual.

All going well until I try and disconnect the wires from the switch - the last thing I need to do before pulling the barrel out.

Problem is the wires go behind the casing of the fuse box (not supposed to do this!) and so I cannot unplug them - I'm really stuck!

I really don't want to remove the fuse box etc. as this seems a big job - probably beyond my capabilities. If anyone has any ideas how to get round this problem I would really appreciate it!

Many thanks

Dave

[Ol'Jeffers]

Hello Dave & welcome to the forum.
You're going to have to give us the year as some changes took place I believe.
Would you also like to do a little post in the " Introductions " section? That way we know who we're talking to! :thumbsup:

[Dave]

Hi OJ
Thanks for getting back - the van was registered in September 2000. I've attached a picture of the wiring loom I think I have got (though wire colour is different).
The thick sheath goes straight behind the fuse box. I've pulled the black plug out of the fusebox and Stuart (who posted a thread concerning ignition barrels on this forum) says the wires should then pull out out of the plug? I have pulled them very hard with pliers but the wires have not budged!
I have no idea where the blue plug is.
Your advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

[tucker]

Which engine size have you got? Petrol? Diesel?

[Dave]

Well - I'm a bit dissapointed at the lack of help - but I think I have sorted it out now. So for anyone else who might have the same problem here is what I am doing to fix it

It seems there is a Mark 1 version of the ignition barrel and wiring loom and a Mark 2. The Mark 1 has longer wires which go behind the fuse box and means it is very difficult to change the barrel and the wiring. The way round this is to free the wires as much as possible, I cut a plastic clip which stopped the wires from coming out from behind the fusebox. This then allows the front half of the barrel to be removed and subsequently changed for a working one. Searching on the internet/ebay new Mark 2 ignition switches are plentiful. However the ignition barrels are different so you need to buy a used Mark 1.

The Mark 2 barrels have shorter wires making it much easier to remove, presumably to get round the problems mentioned above.

Hope this may be of help to someone!

[Coco]

Glad you managed to find a solution and posted it for future reference of anyone else who finds themself in this position.

As for being disappointed at the lack of help, I take the opposite view - presumably nobody else had this problem and thus could not offer any advice. Surely that's a good thing ?

[dink]

Hi all,

Sorry for bumping a mega-old thread but this I had this problem recently and wanted to add my findings as this was the most relevant result when I was searching.

I had an ignition problem where the steering lock came on with the key in position 2-3 and could not turn the key back to pos 0 to remove it.

On my switch (mine is an M49 with a 2.0HDi, 52 plate) there are 2 connectors with 2 wires in each which appear to disappear behind the fusebox.

I'm not 100% on the colours but I think it was yellow/orange and blue/green.

The yellow and orange plug goes over the top of the fusebox and plugs into the front of the fusebox like in this picture stolen from Google:
[Image: FUSEBOXBERLINGO.jpg]

The other plug, which is the blue plug mentioned by Dave, is just above the accelerator pedal by the driver's feet.

I moved the fusebox to get the other plug out but with thin hands it might be possible to wangle the blue/green up the back of the fusebox without removing it.

I was able to get the switch out of the car and later fix it by removing the steering lock bit from it.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

[geoff]

Good post thanks ....

[welshexport]

Hello
I have a Citroen Berlingo 2008 16 Diesel 75 the ignition and all the door locks have packed in its an old locking system not central locking one by one the locks just stoped working the key just turns with no effect now the ignition lock is stuck just won't turn. I can buy all the locks myself but a mate told me that if I do this the car will not start as the key needs to be programmed. The lock set comes with two new keys does anyone have any advice on this Citroen want 500 euros to do the replacement.

[welshexport]

[quote='Dave' pid='14200' dateline='1324642415']
Well - I'm a bit dissapointed at the lack of help - but I think I have sorted it out now. So for anyone else who might have the same problem here is what I am doing to fix it

It seems there is a Mark 1 version of the ignition barrel and wiring loom and a Mark 2. The Mark 1 has longer wires which go behind the fuse box and means it is very difficult to change the barrel and the wiring. The way round this is to free the wires as much as possible, I cut a plastic clip which stopped the wires from coming out from behind the fusebox. This then allows the front half of the barrel to be removed and subsequently changed for a working one.  Searching on the internet/ebay new Mark 2 ignition switches are plentiful. However the ignition barrels are different so you need to buy a used Mark 1.

The Mark 2 barrels have shorter wires making it much easier to remove, presumably to get round the problems mentioned above.

Hope this may be of help to someone!

Hi Dave
This has helped me, I also need the mark 1 barrel how did you manage to remove the barrel I have not got a manual, I removed the plastic around the steering column removed the small screw on the barrel put the key in postion one and there is a rivet at the top of the barrel which you have to push in but I can't get this to budge is this the correct procedure.
thanks for your help

I have the 2008 model