ECU problem on my 2016 berlingo van

[Plumbergonewrong]

On another note, you can try this - run  (connect) a temporary earth cable to the ECU casing using a jump lead or a wire on a screw etc, back to the main body earth point to the right of that fuse box where the ECU lives, directly from the ECU case, to earth and securely connected, then try to start the van, see what it does.

Problem I have is in doing a bsi reset before I messed up the van wasn't restarting after I turned it off I'm talking driving it for 20 mins or so pulling up turning the engine off the when I try to restart she wouldn't over 12 volts in battery in the bsi video u have to restart the van not sure if I get to the point were the engine will start would jumping be ok to do a bsi then thanks

[Sol]

If your battery is actually good, a jump wouldn't help, but to be honest a new or very good battery could be worth a try to be sure your battery isn't actual gubbed. (Scottish word for fcked) so what you can try (as I don't know if there is a good document showing the actual earth physical locations for the ECU if there are no actual ground tags on the outer casing) is connect a good wire to the ECU casing using the bolt hole from the retaining frame, or any threaded screw hole on the ECU casing, and connect that to earth. Then try a good battery either fitted, or as a jump start battery and see if the ignition will come on. As you have a meter, check in continuity if there is a direct connection already from the ECU casing to earth. The reason though I suggested the ECU casing stuff is it sounded like you touched the battery positive post with the ECU when it was out.

Also, starting the engine at the end of the BSI reset is just the final test. The other things done are the actual reset. Try the whole thing up to that point. If it actually does start, the BSI reset has helped or at least not hindered.

I am now wondering what you actually shorted out, as you would definitely see black and coppery flash marks on what ever was shorted out. You can't short a good car battery without a major flash and visible damage to the area of contact.

Also wondering if your battery was the issue in the first place. They can go bad internally and not provide enough current to crank the engine.

[gazahull]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-f5yYpCl5A

[Sol]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-f5yYpCl5A

I linked that video further up Gaza, it didn't help as the OP had no bracket fitted to retain the ECU so it's been out before. I couldn't think how it could touch the battery post either but with no retainer, you can pull it up and lay it on or near the battery....we just haven't established where the flash came from (what actually shorted what out)

[Plumbergonewrong]

I got new battery tried the bsi reset to no joy bell tested all the fuses everything was fine while the key was in the ignition heard clicking noise coming from near the battery found it was 35a 4 pin relay guess that might be the issue must of screwed that I'll head back to the motor factors tomorrow and hope that will be that sorted

[Sol]

Good stuff mate, hope that's it for you.

[Plumbergonewrong]

No joy finding a 4 pin relay all citreon dealers are closed and motor factors don't have it as it's a special one all they have is 30a or 40a 4 pin relays as it's the fuse relay there is no continuity across the solenoid well it doesn't bell it shows about .7 .6 on the meter so I take it that it cant properly energise and that's y its clicking in and out don't know if I should take it out and try it separate to see if something feeding it is the fault u know if I just send it power and see if it will stay energised

[Sol]

Ok, try someone I know. Mike at Endonservices. (Citroen/Peugeot OEM parts suppliers)

https://peugeotcitroendsparts.com/

Mike Aldridge
mike@endonservices.co.uk
+44 (0) 1782 505050

Endon Services Ltd
140 Leek Road, Endon, Stoke on Trent, Staffordshire, ST9 9EW

[Plumbergonewrong]

Thanks I'll see if they'll send to ireland

[Sol]

It's not a bad shout to try powering the relay to see if it holds in anyway. You could probably get the lid off it and take a look. If it's a conventional coil operated relay it should bell out to a few ohms, maybe 25 etc for the coil so it would consume 0.5A pulled in, as 0.6 ohms would pull 20A or so and that's way wrong for a coil on a relay. If it clicks in operation, it is likely to be a conventional one with points and a coil inside. Could just be a broken solder joint or pigtail wire snapped.