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2004 1.9d Timing belt change.
#1
Just got my first berlingo. Thought a timing belt change would be easy but no way its far from it. Haynes guide is rubbish and leaves many questions.
Does anyone here know how to lock crankshaft pulley to remover bolt?
Where are the lifting brackets on engine as i can see one i think but not a second as the haynes guide mentions.
Not sure whether to give up and get mechanic to do as gonna have to make a unistut frame to suport engine as dont have a hoist.

Any help apreciated Smile
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#2
1.9d is easy peasy. PM me email addy, and I'll send autodata pages.

Crank bolt can be undone by using a good quality socket and tough tommy bar, jammed under the wishbone while vehicle is on the ground. A couple of flicks of the ignition key usually has the bolt creaking into submission. Use locktite when re-fitting, and get it as tight as you can with the car on the floor in gear with the handbrake on, or with the footbrake on if it's jacked up with the wheel off. This method comes direct from Citroen lol.

If it's the DW8 with a damper pulley, you shouldn't need to take the centre bolt out anyway. The four smaller M6 bolts let the large outer pulley come away and gives access to the timing belt sprocket.

           
[+] 1 user says Thank You to Barbecue Berlingo for this post
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#3
(14-07-2012, 09:07 PM)Barbecue Berlingo Wrote:  1.9d is easy peasy. PM me email addy, and I'll send autodata pages.

Crank bolt can be undone by using a good quality socket and tough tommy bar, jammed under the wishbone while vehicle is on the ground. A couple of flicks of the ignition key usually has the bolt creaking into submission. Use locktite when re-fitting, and get it as tight as you can with the car on the floor in gear with the handbrake on, or with the footbrake on if it's jacked up with the wheel off. This method comes direct from Citroen lol.

If it's the DW8 with a damper pulley, you shouldn't need to take the centre bolt out anyway. The four smaller M6 bolts let the large outer pulley come away and gives access to the timing belt sprocket.

Thanks for your speedy reply. Very helpfull but a little jubious over bolt removal but may try it. Think i will need to remove the center bolt as i don't have the four M6 bolts on the crank. Friend has a mechanic that's offered to do it all for £120 including water pump so may go for it.
Though another issue I have is the effort needed to push accelerator pedal compared to any other vehicle I have driven. Its really quite stiff.
I checked the cable and its completely free. But the spring on the engine side is really strong. Is this normal with this model or can you get easier spring or just get used to it?
Thanks for your help.
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#4
Hi I changed my cambelt last week - found it fairly easy- have you done yours now? I just jacked the engine up off the sump as they are pretty strong on this model.

re acc pedal - mine is still also - it was worse in the french winter (-25) I think maybe water got between the outer and inner cable and made it tougher but not sure... like you say I'd be interested to hear if theres a lighter spring that'd solve the weight of the pedal
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#5
When I first did the cambelt on ours I cut a piece of 4X3 timber to the profile of the sump and I fasten that to the jacking pad on my trolley jack. It makes it very easy to jack the engine up and it spreads the load.

Peter
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#6
The 'rotational' spring on the pump is a fixed strength as far as I know. Changing it would likely be detrimental to the pump's operation. The small spring on the end of the cable only allows for vibration damping and stress relief. Changing it wouldn't make the pedal lighter. Taking the cable out of the vehicle and oiling it is the only way to cure heavy pedal problems.
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