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Fault Code P1351
#1
I have recently scanned my vehicle with a fault code reader and it came up with a manufacturer specific code of p1351, I have had no warning lights on the dash. I did a search on google and it points me in the direction of a glow plug/relay fault.

During the recent cold spell it has taken a lot of turning over before the engine fires maybe a dozen turns before it bursts into life so my google search may have some truth in it.

I was wondering if anyone with more knowledge and understanding of the codes could tell me a little more

Many Thanks
Matt
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#2
Out of interest what was code p1351 telling you?

Sorry put this to the wrong message, had not read this one first :brickwall:
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2012 Iron Grey XTR 110 with lots of bits and bobs.
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#3
just to briefly explain , i have got hold of a cheap scanner off a mate which reads and gives a description of generic codes, it also reads manufacturer codes but doesnt give a description.

To answer your question the display read

P1351
Manufacturer specific code
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#4
Found this -

P1351 IDM input circuit Malfunction/Ignition coil control circuit High voltage
2010 Berlingo Multispace HDi 110 with FAP. Persamos green.

[Image: ab197646.gif]
[+] 1 user says Thank You to 3rensho for this post
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#5
(30-01-2013, 05:45 AM)3rensho Wrote:  Found this -

P1351 IDM input circuit Malfunction/Ignition coil control circuit High voltage

I presume that is related to glow plug relay, the glow plug light illuminates when necessary but it takes a while to start when below freezing, any other time it starts fine so it doesnt bother me too much as there is no warning lights on and no loss of power.

Thanks for that information though, did you source it off the net or is it your own knowledge.
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#6
I should have added the source. Found the code here.
2010 Berlingo Multispace HDi 110 with FAP. Persamos green.

[Image: ab197646.gif]
[+] 2 users say Thank You to 3rensho for this post
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#7
Thanks for that, it looks like a good source for codes in future.
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#8
(30-01-2013, 08:42 AM)BerlingoHDI Wrote:  Thanks for that, it looks like a good source for codes in future.

Hi - I also have the same fault on a 1.6HDi, I have scanned it with a Lexia3.
I also have a permanent (repeatable) P1351 Fault :woop:
The Lexia3 read out - Permanent Fault Pre-Heat Relay Supplied & heater plugs never supplied.
I have checked this out and after finding the Pre-Heat relay - http://www.berlingoforum.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=4345 :thumbsup:
and cleaning it up, decided to check the Glow Plugs (continuity to engine) and found all 4 were duff (open circuit) :brickwall:
My Lexia read out is telling me that the relay is operating but there is no voltage (current being drawn) at the heaters.
The relay is solid state and feeds back the heaters current drawn to the ECU. I think any one failing will bring up the fault. :thumbsup:
My motor is still starting ok even in the snow so I will leave replacing the glow plugs until it's warmer. Smile

If yours is getting hard to start, check the glow plug resistances between the nut on the top of the glow plugs and the engine block (they're right down the back of the engine under the EGR pipework on the 1.6HDi). :wave:
Good ones should be < 1 ohm, if they are > a few ohms (or open circuit) then they will be dead.
Should be ok to test the glow plugs with a 12v tester lamp (or a 5W bulb on wires from the battery - carefully!!) test to the engine block first, then to the heater plugs one at a time - if it lights it's ok ~ if not that heater plug is dead.
Post back with what you find?
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#9
(30-01-2013, 06:45 PM)BlingoBlue Wrote:  
(30-01-2013, 08:42 AM)BerlingoHDI Wrote:  Thanks for that, it looks like a good source for codes in future.

Hi - I also have the same fault on a 1.6HDi, I have scanned it with a Lexia3.
I also have a permanent (repeatable) P1351 Fault :woop:
The Lexia3 read out - Permanent Fault Pre-Heat Relay Supplied & heater plugs never supplied.
I have checked this out and after finding the Pre-Heat relay - http://www.berlingoforum.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=4345 :thumbsup:
and cleaning it up, decided to check the Glow Plugs (continuity to engine) and found all 4 were duff (open circuit) :brickwall:
My Lexia read out is telling me that the relay is operating but there is no voltage (current being drawn) at the heaters.
The relay is solid state and feeds back the heaters current drawn to the ECU. I think any one failing will bring up the fault. :thumbsup:
My motor is still starting ok even in the snow so I will leave replacing the glow plugs until it's warmer. Smile

If yours is getting hard to start, check the glow plug resistances between the nut on the top of the glow plugs and the engine block (they're right down the back of the engine under the EGR pipework on the 1.6HDi). :wave:
Good ones should be < 1 ohm, if they are > a few ohms (or open circuit) then they will be dead.
Should be ok to test the glow plugs with a 12v tester lamp (or a 5W bulb on wires from the battery - carefully!!) test to the engine block first, then to the heater plugs one at a time - if it lights it's ok ~ if not that heater plug is dead.
Post back with what you find?

Hi , thanks for this reply.

I have a multimeter so if i put a test from glow plug to block the reading should be 1 ohm or below if it is good otherwise it will need replacing.

Is this correct in what i just said, unfortunately though i wont be able to test for a while due to work and i havent got a day off now till the 12th february. Also can i still do this test even though the temperature isnt cold enough to illuminate the light on the dash. sorry to sound such a novice.
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#10
(30-01-2013, 09:29 PM)BerlingoHDI Wrote:  I have a multimeter so if i put a test from glow plug to block the reading should be 1 ohm or below if it is good otherwise it will need replacing.

Is this correct in what i just said, unfortunately though i wont be able to test for a while due to work and i havent got a day off now till the 12th february. Also can i still do this test even though the temperature isnt cold enough to illuminate the light on the dash. sorry to sound such a novice.
Before you carry out this test using the Ohms x1 Scale on your meter, measure the resistance of the meter leads first and subtract
that from the final figure or , if you can, zero the meter while the leads are connected together.
Oh!... and make sure that your meter has newish batteries as measuring low resistances uses quite a bit of battery power. HTH
[fon‌t=Tahoma, Calibri, Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif]The Older I get the Better I Was!  Cool [/font]
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