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Overheating after new radiator replaced
#1
Hi guys. When the weather was cold my old radiator did burst in the middle of long journey. Had more holes on it then on fishing net. ..Smile

I had to finish my journey somehow. So bought and used 2 bottles of radiator sealant, this helped me to return home . (Still had to stop after every 5 minutes to refill radiator with water and let the temp go down)

Now. Back at home I replaced radiator. But now my temperature goes top high ( red light.) After driving about 5-6 miles.

Thought it might be thermostat so replaced with new one - still the same.

Removed thermostat at all to let water flow and cool the system - still the same.

Also replaced green temp sensor - still the same.

Tried to shorten two pins on gauge sensor , just to make fan blow constantly - no difference

Also my radiator is cold in a middle after a good run, but top hot where thermostat hose is. (Top right)
What do you guys think ?
I am sure there is no air gap. Both pipes to heater hot. Also tried to flush the system there is no blockage.

Still have a bad feeling about that radiator sealant somewhere in a system.
Or could it be water pump?

Thank you .









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#2
Did you bleed the system after you filled it? Maybe its air in it?
[+] 2 users say Thank You to hjdse for this post
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#3
Hi if you are very lucky it could just be air in the system there are many bleed points that resemble tyre valve caps start with the lowest first and work up also the temp sender is very near the top so can be loosened whilst squeezing the lower hoses this should rule out any air lock. But how far did you drive? did the rad burst due to lack of antifreeze before you set off? you will have put massive stresses on the block & head by re-filling an overheated engine with cold water then boiling it again also two doses of rad-seal could have possibly blocked the heater matrix this will not aid water flow so does the heater work? you should hear any rumbling of the water pump this will need replacing if unsure as if it destroys itself it could also throw the cambelt very nasty , good luck
[+] 2 users say Thank You to Ikanpaul for this post
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#4
Id bet on airlock. Start the engine start squeezing the rubber pipes all round the engine bay, normally pushes out the air
[+] 1 user says Thank You to corkgsxr for this post
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#5
(05-02-2013, 09:44 AM)Ikanpaul Wrote:  But how far did you drive? did the rad burst due to lack of antifreeze before you set off? you will have put massive stresses on the block & head by re-filling an overheated engine with cold water then boiling it again also two doses of rad-seal could have possibly blocked the heater matrix this will not aid water flow so does the heater work? you should hear any rumbling of the water pump this will need replacing if unsure as if it destroys itself it could also throw the cambelt very nasty , good luck


I did bleed the system with top plastic cap on picture (1) can you advise me where the other points located ?
My heater is not working due to electrical fail so can not test it.
I can feel warm air coming from grills. also both hoses on picture marked as (2) are very hot.

But how far did you drive? - about 60Miles Smile

did the rad burst due to lack of antifreeze before you set off?

It did burst because there was no antifreeze at all , was just frozen water.

what do you mean by you should hear any rumbling of the water pump?


BTW anyone familiar with this cap on picture marked as (3)
it is located on top radiator right corner. Same as one on the bottom for flushing coolant/water out
I tried to unscrew it but no luck, it does feel a bit plasticky so i am afraid to use pliers on it.




[Image: Untitled_1.jpg]

[Image: Untiftled_1.jpg]

[Image: Ufdntitled_1.jpg]


Thank You
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#6
Yes, that is a bleed screw. Also there is often one at the thermostat housing - possibly a brass screw with internal hex head.
[+] 1 user says Thank You to addo for this post
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#7
Hi what i meant about rumbling waterpump was is there any undue noise from that area, its hard to hear on a diesel for obvious reasons but if the pump has run dry for even a minute it could have damaged the plastic blades making it unable to circulate water hence overheating problems, I hope this is not the case and wish you luck.
[+] 1 user says Thank You to Ikanpaul for this post
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#8
As I said elsewhere the water pump impeller may have detached if the water in the pump also froze.
[fon‌t=Tahoma, Calibri, Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif]The Older I get the Better I Was!  Cool [/font]
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