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Mk3 engine under tray
I intend to do my first oil and filter change on my Mk3 this weekend, but as it's cold and dark outside at the moment, I was wondering if someone can tell me if the whole under tray has to be removed to drain the oil or is there a hole or panel that can be removed to save removing the whole tray

Also, does the drain plug need a special tool to remove it (spline or hexagonal allen key type) or can a spanner or normal socket be used

Same with the filter really - spline, hexagonal or standard socket/spanner

Any help will save me going out tonight in the dark with a torch
On the filter housing a standard socket will do. Place some rags around the base of the housing prior to removal of the filter to catch drips. Be sure to replace the O-ring on the filter housing cap at the same time and make sure it's not twisted. Make sure the nipple on the new filter is seated properly into the recess in the engine before tightening. Torque the filter cap to 25Nm.
2010 Berlingo Multispace HDi 110 with FAP. Persamos green.

[Image: ab197646.gif]
It's a socket for the sump plug too on my mk3. You need to replace the copper washer on the plug. And yes, the tray does need to come off. you'll need a long 10mm socket for the 2 central nuts as the bolts are quite long.

I had a problem that there was very little room between the sump and the tray I was draining the oil into, but one of the forum guys pointed out I could have jacked the car one side to do this then lower it to complete the draining. Much easier than digging a hole in the drive!
Got bored while waiting for the wife to come home so I braved the cold and the dark to have a look.

I found that I didn't need to take the under tray off as there is a large roundish cut out in the tray directly under the sump plug.

[Image: sumpplug.jpg]

After measuring the size of the sump nut (21 mm) and the size of the filter housing (27 mm), the wife still hadn't come home, so I though get out the extension lead and pit lamp and do the job now.

Took the car out for a run to heat the oil until the temp gauge was reading nearly 90 degrees then drained the oil and took off the filter housing.

I'm glad I did now as with all the talk of turbo failures on these engines, I wanted to see how clean the old oil was coming out.

Yes it was black, but after letting it settle in the container, I poured it through a fine filter and there was no thick black gungy deposits in the oil at all.
Even the oil filter was pretty clean.

My biggest problem I had was getting the old filter out of the housing.
As I'd never done the change before, I didn't know that there was a lip on the inside of the housing which the filter goes over and the filter needed a good old yank to get it out.

It's all back together now (with new sump plug washer) and I've taken it for a spin and it didn't seize, come up with any error codes or flashing warning lights, so I assume I've fitted everything correctly.

It's put my mind at ease now because I now know the inside of the engine must be pretty clean so hopefully no turbo failure for me

I'll change the oil again in another 3000 miles just to make sure before continuing with a change every 6000 miles
[+] 1 user says Thank You to ntm1275 for this post
I put 2 house bricks on the drive and drove onto them giving me extra room underneath for the tray.

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