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1.6 hdi turbo
#1
Hi all, has anyone stripped and cleaned a turbo? Seen on youtube. Looks easy enough. Mine is collecting oil. Is it worth changing oil seals. Or am i doomed???? I'm not a mechanic by the way. The
bearings seem ok. How much are the kits???? So many questions i know. Sorry lads! Taff....
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#2
Hi there will be some oil in side the turbo and on the in side of the pipe's too and from the turbo as there is an oil vapour breather from the engine on to the air intake pipe
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#3
Yes they can be rebuilt and there are several companies selling the kits on ebay

They are not difficult to do, but the thing to watch out for is seized bolts - this can be made easier with leaving them for several days in a penetrating fluid

If there is any damage to the compressor or shaft, then the turbo would need these parts replacing as well, which adds to the cost

If you are very careful you can mark the position of the parts before taking it apart which can save you the hassle of getting it balanced, but a better option would be to get it balance anyway to make sure, as an out of balance turbo will quickly destroy its bearings
[+] 2 users say Thank You to ntm1275 for this post
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#4
Thanks for that, think i might give it a go, better than buying a new one.. What do you mean Balance' if theres no play in the bearing does it still need balancing?
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#5
It's the imperfection of mass production.It rotates at very high revs & therefore needs to be well balanced.Confusedalut:
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[+] 1 user says Thank You to ron for this post
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#6
(01-12-2013, 08:51 PM)Taff Wrote:  Thanks for that, think i might give it a go, better than buying a new one.. What do you mean Balance' if theres no play in the bearing does it still need balancing?

What @ron says

There will always be a small amount of 'play' in the bearings as there has to be a gap for the oil to flow through, but this 'play' is normally reduced considerably when the oil is being pumped in to the turbo under pressure

As the turbo spins faster and faster (up to 150,000 rpm), it creates vibrations due to heavy spots. If those vibrations are not kept to an absolute minimum, it means the heavy spot in one or more areas puts undue extra force on the bearings which will eventually wear the bearings so that they are no longer round but oval shaped.
This can lead to the compressor and/or turbine wheels touching their housings which will lead to total turbo destruction.
Normally though, you will see obvious signs that something is wrong, like smoke pouring out of the exhaust as the oil passes through the worn bearings in to the turbine side (burning off due to heat) or in to the engine via the compression side (oil being burned during the normal engine running cycle)

If left unchecked, the oil passing in to the compressor side can clog/interfere with the air cooling characteristics of the intercooler, meaning raised air intake temperatures, leading to detonation and destruction of the engine itself.

Diesel engines can withstand a limited amount of detonation (pre ignition) due to diesel having a cooler burning process, where as petrol engines will quickly destroy/melt the pistons in a matter of seconds when detonation occurs.

Balancing normally will add an extra £50+ on to the cost of a turbo rebuild

Just as a footnote, you may want to read this before spending any money.
http://www.ebay.com/gds/BEWARE-of-the-DI...810/g.html
[+] 3 users say Thank You to ntm1275 for this post
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#7
Surely if you have oil leaking past the turbo oil seals it will be drawn into the engine and burnt off rather than collect in the turbo. Any oil collecting in the inlet side is likely to be oil from the crankcase breather. This breather exits from the side of the plastic cam cover or oil separator as the manual calls it and enters the inlet tract prior to the turbo.
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#8
You say that you're not a mechanic....does that mean that you
a) Have limited understanding about basic engineering
or
b) You don't have much of a tool kit.
If the answer is 'Yes' to either you should leave the job to someone who knows what they're doing.
It's the difference between getting lucky and doing a successful job or destroying the engine.
Sorry to have to say that but due to the very high speeds that turbos run at if it should fall apart
then the likelihood of serious engine damage is high.
Put it this way.....I'm a qualified electro-mechanical engineer and I wouldn't attempt it without instruction.
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[+] 1 user says Thank You to Ol'Jeffers for this post
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#9
(17-02-2014, 11:39 PM)OlJeffers Wrote:  You say that you're not a mechanic....does that mean that you
a) Have limited understanding about basic engineering
or
b) You don't have much of a tool kit.
If the answer is 'Yes' to either you should leave the job to someone who knows what they're doing.
It's the difference between getting lucky and doing a successful job or destroying the engine.
Sorry to have to say that but due to the very high speeds that turbos run at if it should fall apart
then the likelihood of serious engine damage is high.
Put it this way.....I'm a qualified electro-mechanical engineer and I wouldn't attempt it without instruction.
No offence , but Ol' Jeffers is giving good advice...

My old work mate used to say " A little knowledge is a dangerous thing " :whistle:
Former 2011 Mk3 XTR owner Confusedalut:
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