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Horn doesn't work...
Yeah, the horn is the most quiet part of my Berlingo...

I've tried the 'ground the steering column' trick, but no joy.
(This is a Mk. I, though. There's no electrical connection between the switch assembly and the steering column on this car.)

I pulled the connectors from the switch assembly and got the assembly out. (I have the covers around the column removed so it wasn't all that much work.)
The switch is working as far as I can tell(used my trusty multimeter), and one of the pins in the connector reads 12V.
The other pin, though... Reads as a break.
(If I understand the horrid Haynes schematics, there should only be the horn between the switch and Earth, so it should register as a resistor)

Unfortunately, there are two different 'typical' schematics in the manual, and no real usefulness in either as neither tells me which connectors the wires ends at.

I've already fixed the airbag warning(yeah, the connector under the seat), the washer only spraying the front windshield(bad connection on the electric valve that switches the output. Damn, there was a lot of dirt behind that wheel arch... ) and the sun roof(the motor now moves... Pity the mechanism is jammed full of crap and won't move more than 2" before 'burping' the gears.)
I'm interested on this, I have the exact same thing, the switch appears to work, mechanically at least.

I traced the horn back and there appears to be some sort of relay behind the Citroen badge on the front grille! That is my next suspect point to check.
There's not supposed to be a relay in this circuit.
(Why would there be? A horn doesn't draw that much power, does it?)

I found the horn on a 5pin connector on the steering column:
(The '.' are the two pins belonging to the horn)

Not looking forward to tearing apart the front of the car...
Test the horn directly from the battery first to see if its working,, then check its earth,, and continuity from the switches
And how do we do that?

Pull the entire front off to connect directly to the bl**dy thing?
(To get physical access to the horn you need to jack up the front, take off the wheels and remove the bumper.)

It would be so much easier if I could find a connector on the wiring loom somewhere in the engine compartment and test from there.

I spent half the day yesterday trying to find my boroscope and a 'buzzer'(tester used mostly in telecoms to identify wiring). Still have a few places left to look...

I don't even know for certain exactly HOW this circuit is wired or which earthing point is used.
The schematic claims that the sequence is this:

12V -> Fuse -> Switch -> Horn -> Earth LH Engine compartment or Earth LH A-pillar.

But what if the Switch comes after the Horn?
Then I could touch an Earthed wire to the connector pin I measured 12V on and you'd get noise.

If the Schematic is right, though, the only noise you'd get is a fuse popping.

I'm hitting a hardware store on my way home from work today.
I may just pick up a 'generic' horn and some wire...
it might be the easiest way, i believe the horn is behind the bumper on L/H/S and bumper has to come off to gain access, also its 12v,engine fuse box,passanger fuse box,switch, horn and then to earth,, earth is on L/H wing,, happy hunting
I'm wondering if some of the coolant I've spilled, or boiled over, may have reached the horn...

Digging deeper will have to wait until tomorrow.
Tonight I'm cutting a new gasket for the radiator cap...
The solution which I used on my 06 Mk.2 was to find the feed to the horn and you can yank it off
the existing horn then re-route it to a new horn mounted on the one of the available points on the left inner
wing. In fact I used a Stebel so it required a little more work adding a fused relay and another feed from the battery.
But if you just use a standard type of horn (Either from Halfords or similar.) you won't to do anything more than mount and use the
original wires. As far as I was concerned the amount of work/time required to remove the original horn and replace it was worth the cost simply buying a new horn.
[fon‌t=Tahoma, Calibri, Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif]The Older I get the Better I Was!  Cool [/font]
Got it sorted...

The horn is behind the bumper, on the lefthand side.

The Gospel of Haynes, chapter 12 claims that you need to remove the front bumper on a Mk. I to gain access. Not so.
It's reachable as soon as the grille is removed.
Remove indicator lights(clip on top, push down with a screwdriver or something, or snake your hand in from behind the headlight. Then pull it forwards)
Remove the 'vanity' pieces under the headlights(remove the clip on the joint, reachable now that the indicators are gone.)
Remove the grille(4 screws, one underneath each headlight, one near top of each headlight. Lift top over the rubber knobs, then yank it forwards... )
It may be a good idea to unclip the top of the radiator and the fan shroud and tilt those back a bit. Removing the lefthand headlight is 3 screws, but not necessary.

The original horn has M6 screw to fasten it to the two pieces of metal it's suspended from. If replacing the horn with a generic, make certain it, too, has a M6 bolt. If not, you'll have to replace the two pieces of metal, and the screw holding them hits on the bottom of the front bumper bracket. (It may be possible to drill out the holes with a cordless drill and a long drill-bit, but don't count on it. )

Generic horns doesn't have the same connectors as the original horn, so expect to have to tinker a bit to put on new connectors on those wires...
It may in fact be easier to just take off the front bumper if you need to mess with the cabling. (My hands have stopped bleeding now... )

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